Pet Birds That Children Love

PARAKEETS are a great  fun for your children , especially the younger  ones. They need activity time to play out of the cages which makes them perfect pet birds for small kids. These colorful birds are small and they do not need a lot of care. They could be even trained to talk. They are wonderful companions and can make good relationships with your young kids. If you want a friend for your children, buy a Parakeet. Why do you think they are called Budgies- they are not expensive, that’s why this is one more reason for you to choose them .They are not very loud, live about 15 years and they do not require special food, just fresh veggies which you can buy from any greengrocer’s.

FINCHES live about 7 or 8 years, they are not very messy birds and they do not require a lot of interaction .With their soft chirps and chatter they give you a lot of fun and enjoyable moments with their soothing “music”. They are are beautiful and fascinating to watch. They prefer bird company so if you choose a finch, you’d better buy a pair of finches. Be aware that you should not take out finches from the cage . So you should buy a  big cage for them because they like flying around. If your kid dream for physically interaction with a bird, choose another .

CANARIES are also great pets for your children. They are from the finch family and have a wide array of colors. They do not need a bird companion because they are not as sociable  as other members of the finch family. They live from 10 to 15 years. Males sing beautifully which is very relaxing for humans. Canaries do not require a lot of attention.They are perfect for  a first time owner.

COCKATIELS as they are large birds are perfect for older kids who like interaction with pets. They are interesting because they can be taught to speak, do funny tricks or whistle. They need more time to interact with than other smaller birds and  they relish time out of the bird cage.Also they require large room in the cage for exercises  so there should be perches and toys in the cage to play with.  Most of these birds live approximately 30 years.

DIAMOND DOVES are small  birds and they need the company of other doves and require a lot of room. They are easy going and pretty and you don’t have to spend much time with them. There should be some perches in the cage as they prefer roosting or setting on high, flat surfaces.They live from 12 to 15 years.

PEACH-FACED LOVEBIRDS are high only 6 ½ inches and live  20 years. They are able to learn a few  tricks.They are very energetic and colorful. They are not that noisy as larger parrots. But also they may become territorial and protective. They require lots of toys, perches and a play gym. You should change water once a day and clean the cage.

SPECTACLED PARROTLETS are small 5 inches birds , very energetic and suitable

pets for teenagers. They need lots of space to play with their toys , changing water once a day and cage cleaning. Also they require time for personal interaction and activity. These curious and even feisty  little creatures are not cheap and live 20 or more years and  need more food that other birds.

SOME OTHER THINGS TO CONSIDER At first you have to determine how mature is your child. In general children less than 7-8 years old are not prepared to look after a pet , of course there are some exceptions when some children behave more responsibly than their contemporaries. First see how your child and a bird will feel and interact together, so visit a  breeder or a pet store. Notice how long your child’s attention will be kept by the bird and whether he or she reacts badly if being bitten for example. Otherwise the pet bird care will be your responsibility.You have to bE sure that your child is consistent in caring for the birds as they need daily attention and social interaction. Remind your child what his responsibilities will be :cleaning the cage, daily changing water, feeding and so forth. Children usually promise to do it but often forget, so you have to remind them to  keep their word   unless you or your pet bird will suffer.

What about the noise? Some of the birds like singing and chattering all day. Of course there are some kinds of birds which are quieter but even they tend to be more vocal if they live in homes with children, maybe because they respond to the childrens voices. If the volume is a problem then you have to choose those which are less noisy.

Children often do not realize that birds are fragile and they could easily injure or even kill their pet when they hug it or move carelessly .The risk is bigger if the bird is small . With bigger birds there is another risk – the child could be bitten or frightened by them. Your children have to be aware of this risk and to be very careful not to be harmed to keep the birds far away from their faces.

We hope that all this has helped you to decide whether the pet bird is good for you and your child  or to try another pet.

Daci Georgieva writes for www.birdcages.me where you can find useful information about Birds, Bird Cages and Bird Stands . Visit the website for more details.

The basic requirements for a suitable aviary for your pet birds

Aviaries come in all shapes and sizes, shop around for the best deal; some are for indoor use and some are for outdoor use but all have basically the same qualities, with few exceptions. An outdoor aviary will need some kind of shelter for your birds to roost at night and help protect themselves from extremes in the weather, and it will also need to be rodent proof.

The type of aviary you go for will depend on the space you have, the visual impact of the aviary, the birds you want to keep, and of course the cost, however another reasonably priced alternative is to build your own.

Either way make sure your aviary is sited correctly.

An indoor aviary (or flight) should be located away from sources of heating (such as radiators) and out of constant direct sunlight for the same reason, you do not want your birds to become over heated leading to exhaustion. Also if using non-stick kitchenware keep your aviary away from the kitchen, the fumes given off by non-stick cookware whilst in use are very toxic to your birds, and can cause serious health issues or even death in some cases. Try and site your indoor aviary preferably off the floor away from other household pets.

An outdoor aviary on the other hand is usually a preferable choice for most people. It should if possible be set on a solid concrete or slab (flag stone) base, this will prevent rats from burrowing into your pet birds accommodation and stealing their food, their eggs, and sometimes young chicks. Solid foundations and a few rows of brick or concrete block work will stop rats from chewing through wood in contact with the ground in order to get in, if this is not possible then I recommend fastening aviary mesh on the outside of any ground contact wood as this will go a long way to prevent them from chewing through.

All exposed areas should be covered with a suitable sized aviary mesh to of course stop your pet birds from escaping, even the smallest hole will undoubtedly be found by your inquisitive birds.

A mainly wooden and mesh aviary should be constructed with natural new bird safe wood and welded mesh. If you decide to paint the woodwork of your aviary be sure to use a good quality exterior animal safe (pet safe) wood preservative, there are many quality propriety brands available.

Some sort of security entrance is a must, an area you can get into and shut yourself in that’s separate from the bird area. This is so you can get into the aviary without allowing your birds to escape as you enter. Basically a human area and a bird area, separated by a door of some type (mesh is fine). Go into the human area and close and fasten the door behind you then you can open the bird area to go in and do whatever is required without your pet birds escaping to the outside, because I assure you they will if given the opportunity. If any of your birds do escape however the chances are they will return; with the possible exception of juveniles your birds are not stupid and know instinctively where home is, and food and shelter etc. Look out for them returning, catch them and then return them into the aviary. If that fails then it is wise to report them missing to the relevant authority.

An assortment of perches are a must for your outdoor flight. Natural wood branches of varying thickness and angles are best, allowing your pet birds to perch and climb, and keeping as close to natural as possible.

 Your outdoor aviary should also have a shelter for your birds to roost at night (often called a night shelter) and to allow them to escape the weather (equip it with varying perches for roosting). Put your feeding and water containers in this shelter so your birds will learn where to go to be fed, this will also help if you want to close them in there at night – it can be rather annoying trying to catch your birds in the evening to get them in, or to chase them in – if their food and water is there they will go in of their own accord.

Also a type of bird bath in your aviary containing fresh water is also an advantage, this can either be outside in the flight or inside in the shelter (I have mine on the outside) as almost all birds like an occasional bath.

You can if you choose have a solid rather than mesh top on your aviary – or part of it – to give your birds some extra shelter; however this is not absolutely necessary as long as you have a night shelter; in fact most birds actually enjoy an occasional rain shower.

No artificial heating is required as most birds are very hardy, but be sure your night shelter is free from draughts as this can cause problems, especially during the winter.

Finches will need some kind of artificial lighting on longer nights; because they are smaller and very active birds they will eat more often, but only if it’s light, try not to allow them to go longer than 8 hours without light as they will need to build up their fat reserves to see them through the cold nights, a simple battery or mains powered light will suffice as long as they can’t actually make contact with the hot bulb and burn themselves (switch it off about 7 hours before dawn or fit a timer to do it automatically).

Check your aviary thoroughly each day for any signs of weakness or wear and tear, and rectify any problems before they become a serious issue.

For more detailed information about bird keeping or to get hold of your copy of my new ebook then please email me and be sure to read my other articles.

Pick the Right-Shaped and Sized Bird Toys to Entertain Your Birds

Size does matter – even if you are buying things for the birds in cage. To pamper your caged friends you can bring home the carefully chosen and insightful picks of bird toys. Make sure you understand that the wooden gyms and stands, swings, perches, chew toys, puzzles or foot toys are not the mere playthings but are effective grooming tools to take good care of them in their caged existence. It would be unfair to generalize bird toys as something you can gift to any shaped and sized birds. As a pet owner, you need to have knowledge of their unique and distinctive behavioral patterns and that the birds need those toys just as they need food and water.

It’s up to you to decide on what’s going to be the right pick for your feathered friend, and you can do that with a naïve intention to spoil them too! You’ll find that even the stern and strong-built birds love the bird toys while you’ll surf a fascinating range of hand-designed bird toys online. That’s precisely the point of gifting your pets with naturally-made hand-crafted bird toys that somehow resemble the natural playthings in wild habitats. Make sure your birds just don’t get bored with toys that look plain and unflattering to them. Like the tiny tots, birds too can express their likes and falling for toys – and you must know that better!  

Pick the Right Sized Bird Toys to Keep Your Birds Fit-n-Fine:-

If you really care for your bird pets, it’s your job to give them good reasons to be in the cages. Make sure they don’t get the cloistered feeling inside, and have doses of entertainment when you are not around. While you dig out sources for best-suited bird toys you can afford, think of their vital measurements! That will help you make good selections that are not too big or small for your bird friends. Your pets can chew the smaller sized gifts and get choked; the bigger toys can give them goose bumps!

Bird toys for big birds as Macaws can comprise of large chunky pieces, they can be wooden blocks, large sized beads for them to handle. As they love to climb and perch on the toys, you’ll need swings made of thick and sturdy ropes, and bird toys having a strong clasp attached to the cages. Swing chains dangling chewable pieces, triangular rope rings can keep them entertained and their feet busy. Swinging movements will get them the feeling they’re perched on the branches!
It’s better to keep your bird toys ensemble rather smart for petite cockatiels, cockatoos and parakeets. They can be goodie baskets, garlic stackers, bunch of shreds, spinner or chimes, anything that appeal to them, without scaring them away. To tend the naturally curious and probing nature of the parrots, keep them engaged with puzzles, sorting and untying knots and the likes.
Your caged friends have well-formed personalities to get groomed to the bird toys you’re planning to buy them. Take good care of that!

A brief outline of alternative foods to give to your pet & aviary birds

I have a large open air mixed aviary at the bottom of my garden which is home to lots of budgies and finches (Bengalese (society) finches and zebra finches), a few cockatiels, a pair of turquoisine grass parakeets, some java sparrows (java finches), a couple of Eastern (golden mantle) rosellas, and a few kakarikis, who all live together in reasonable harmony (the large flight helps to reduce squabbles as they have room to get out of each others way) and they also share the flight area with – you’ll love this – a rabbit; yes I have an open rabbit hutch in the bottom of my aviary flight and my rabbit gets the run of the flight – nothing new, I’ve been doing this for years. The rabbit and the birds have got used to this set up and never bother each other, I’ve even known them to share food.

I discovered this one day a while ago when I took dandelion leaves and carrots into the flight to give as a treat for the rabbit, and within minutes I noticed some of my birds coming to the floor and helping my rabbit to eat her treats. I’ve since been giving dandelion leaves and carrots not only to the rabbit but to my birds also, they love ‘em!

The basic rule is if you can eat it then most likely your birds can also, with a few exceptions of course, common sense should prevail when feeding other foods to your birds. Avoid meat, fatty stuff, food full of preservatives, sugary food etc.; remember common sense, healthy is best; but if unsure about anything then don’t give it to them or talk to an avian vet or avian nutritionist.

Avoid these:

Alcohol, Apple seeds, Apricot pits, Asparagus, Avocado (entire plant and fruit)
Avoid anything high is salt, sugar, and fat content.
Beans (any uncooked), Butter
Caffeine, Carbonated beverages, Cherry pits, Chocolate, Cigarette tobacco
Dairy Products (birds are lactose intolerant – cleaned/cooked eggs and yogurt are fine)
Fatty foods, Food Dyes, Fruit Pits, Fruit Rinds
Garlic,
Houseplants (most are toxic, not all)
Lettuce
Mayonnaise products, Mushrooms, Marijuana (hemp),
Nectarine pits, Nuts (brazil nuts, almonds, imported nuts that have been polished/dyed)
Old Seeds, Olives, Onions (raw or cooked)
Peach pits, Pear pits, Plum pits, Raw Meats, Raw Peanuts, Rhubarb (contains oxalic acid, as does spinach)
Salty/Sugary Foods, Seeds of: Pears, Oranges, Papaya, Grapefruit, Grapes, Apples & some Melons, Sugar (too much is a bad thing, best kind is natural sugars), Sulphites (found in dried fruits and veggies to help preserve them-only from health food store)
Tobacco, Tomato plant
Uncooked Rice, Unwashed Fruits or Vegetables

Give these veggies:

Acorn or Butternut Squash , Artichoke
Basil, Beans (cooked only), Beet & Turnip Greens, Beetroot, Bell Peppers, Bok Choy, Broccoli, Broccoli Rabe, Brussels Sprouts
Cabbage, Cactus Leaf, Carrot Tops, Carrots, Cauliflower, Celery stalks, Chayote Squash, Chickweed, Chinese Cabbage, Collard Greens, Cooked Red Potatoes, Cooked Sweet Potatoes, Corn, Cucumber
Dandelion Greens
Edomame, Eggplant (fruit only), Endive, Escarole
Fennel
Green Beans
Hot Peppers
Jicama
Kale, Kohlrabi
Lettuce
Mustard Greens
Okra
Parsley, Peas, Potato (cooked), Pumpkin (and seeds)
Radicchio, Radish Red Beet (fresh), Radishes, Red or Green Pepper, Romaine or other dark leafy lettuce
Snow Peas, Spaghetti Squash, Spinach, Sprouts, Squash, Sugar Snap Peas, Sweet Potato, Swiss Chard
Tofu, Tomatoes, Turnip Greens
Watercress
Yams
Zucchini (courgette, marrow)

Give these fruits:

Apples (cored), Apricot
Banana – (only served fresh), Berries (Strawberries, Raspberries, Blackberries, Blueberries), Blackcurrant, Blood orange
Cactus Pear (peeled), Cantaloupe melon, Cherry, Cranberries
Dried dates
Figs (fresh)
Gooseberries, Grapefruit (seeded), Grapes (with seeds), Guava
Honeydew melon
Kiwi (peeled)
Lychee (Litchi)
Mandarin, Mangos (pitted), Melons
Nectarines
Oranges (seeded)
Papaya, Peaches (pitted), Pears (cored), Pineapple, Plums (pitted), Pomegranate
Quince
Red Currants
Star Fruit
Tangerines (seeded)
Watermelon (no seeds), Winter Squash
Yams, Yellow Plum

Other safe foods:

Cooked grains, Cooked legumes

Grains, Breads, and Muffins:

Graham crackers, Mandel bread (soaked), Matzoh, Mini bagels, Oatmeal, Pastas, Rice cakes, Rice Chex, Rice Krispies, Sweetened corn cereals, Sweetened oat cereals, Toasted bread, Unsalted crackers, Unsalted, unbuttered popcorn, Wheat cereals, Whole-wheat or multigrain bread, Zwieback toast, soaked, Whole Grain Breads, Whole Wheat Pasta, Lentils, Sprouted Mung, Sprouting Peas – can also be sprouted:
Amaranth, Brown Rice, Buckwheat, Hulless Barley, Millet, Quinoa, Spelt or Kamut, Teff, Whole Oats, Wild Rice, ,Corn Bread, Hulled seeds
Millet spray, Monkey biscuits

Hard-boiled eggs, Peanut butter sandwiches rolled in millet, Scrambled eggs, Sprouted seeds

Please note that this list is by no means conclusive, but it will give you a good start – there‘s plenty of variety there to keep your bird or birds happy even if you never bother with anything else. There are many other foods and plants that are safe to give to your birds, and also many that are not safe. The best advice I can give is; IF IN DOUBT, LEAVE IT OUT! We don’t want to make our birds ill through our incompetence or lack of knowledge now do we?

Remember; for the best advice talk to an avian nutritionist or avian vet.

 

 

 

 

The absolute basics to successfully breed four different types of the most popular pet birds. Part 1

Sexing your birds can sometimes be a bit hit and miss as not all have obvious differences between the two sexes. Adult male (cock) budgies will have a blue cere (the small flesh-like part above their beak (looks like nostrils) whereas the adult female (hen) budgie has a brown or tan-like cere, all juvenile budgies will have a pale blue cere until fully fledged. Bengalese (society) finches are very difficult to sex and best left to an avian professional (or you could just take your chances with a few and hope some pair up); the only really obvious trait is that a male will sing whereas a female will not (again not strictly true as hen birds can sometimes turn out a few pleasant notes, but the cock bird is much more efficient with his vocal chords). Normal zebra finches are generally easier to sex as the cock bird will have red or orange cheeks whereas the hen bird will not. As for cockatiels; well to be honest with you, I haven’t got a clue and just have to take my chances, an avian professional will be more able to help. With many other breeds, especially the many types of parakeets (small parrots) the male is often more brightly coloured than the female, but not in every case.

Firstly any birds you wish to breed should be in good health as raising chicks can be an exhaustive task and unfit birds would be unable to achieve it successfully.

Secondly your birds are going to require some sort of nest box, loads are available at very reasonable prices (or you could make your own), more info below.

Also you will have to ensure that there will be sufficient heat for your birds to breed and raise chicks, not excessive heat but enough for them to be comfortable.

Plus your birds will need a good regular supply of various foods to help them keep up their strength and feed their offspring.

Finally, certain nesting materials will be required for your birds to use.

So lets start at the beginning shall we; keep an eye on your birds to make sure that they display no signs of ill health or weakness. Of course the birds you hope to breed will have to be fully fledged and adult, this should go without saying. If you only have an opposite sex pair in a cage or small aviary don’t assume that they will want to breed, some just don’t fancy each other or are not ready. If however you have a large communal (or mixed) aviary your chances of breeding success will be much improved. Unless you plan to breed for the show bench (this requires much more attention) then you should allow your birds to choose their own mates. Most of the commonest birds kept as pets are monogamous by nature, that means they will pair for life and the same pair will mate year after year, there are exceptions of course but as a general rule monogamy is in where your pet birds are concerned. You will notice a paired couple in your mixed aviary as they will follow each other around and stick together, and an act known as ‘billing’ will occur often between the pair. Billing can be described as kissing, your birds will effectively ‘kiss’ each other with their bills (beaks), imitating the act of feeding each other (which of course they will actually do once nesting takes place).

This subject and others are covered more extensively in my new ebook coming soon. So for more information or to reserve your copy please email me.

 

Pet Birds For Youngsters – 3 Birds That Build Great Pets For Kids

sBirds are fascinating creatures for adults to look at, but even additional thus for a few children. Selecting a bird that can not only match your lifestyle however will match the amount of care that your kid is in a position to supply will permit your kid to take a vigorous and necessary part within the bird’s care.

A positive expertise with a pet bird will increase your kid’s sense of responsibility and foster the importance of caring for different than self. The bird will profit from being given all that it desires to live a protracted, happy and healthy life. Here are three birds that make great pets for children.The 3 birds below are chosen as a result of they are comparatively inexpensive, do not would like as much human interaction as some larger parrots, are readily offered in a big range of colours in most places, eat a fairly normal diet, and are relatively quiet creating them nice selections not solely in free standing homes but for residences, condos and townhouses as well.

The birds below are by no suggests that the only three that make sensible pets, but they’re actually a smart place to start your search. And although the bird might be billed as your child’s pet, oldsters ought to take final responsibility for the care of the bird, and gauge the care that your child provides based mostly on their maturity and ability.Finches come back in an incredible selection of colours and sizes. They are active and cheerful little birds (sometimes 3- to 8 inches) that chirp quietly, and would like a cage that permits them to fly from place to place. They can do best if paired with another finch that’s compatible.

Pairing them means that they’ll interact with every alternative instead of depending on their humans. The cage desires to be a minimum of eighteen inches sq. and bigger if potential particularly when housing two birds, and wants to contain perches at many levels. Relying on your kid’s age their responsibility might embrace providing daily water, food, and changing the paper on the underside of the cage. A cage with a pull out tray at the bottom makes this an straightforward task that doesn’t need handling the bird or risk the bird’s doable escape from the cage. Note that Finches born within the United States are illegal to possess as pets.Parakeets or Budgies are relatively simple to care for, and having two will insure that they can give the social interaction for each different that they need to stay physically, and emotionally healthy.

Of the birds mentioned here, they need the longest lifespan, living ten to fifteen years. Give careful thought before adopting this bird as it means that a future commitment that will continue even when your kid moves aloof from home. Accessible in all colours and sizes, the hardest part will in all probability be in selecting from such a huge selection.Canaries are man’s feathered friends through the ages and vary in size from regarding 5 to eight inches. Many assume of this bird as canary yellow, and while that continues to be a popular color, they’re conjointly offered in varying shades of red and orange. Their wonderful songs offer many hours of delight with the male tending to sing higher than the female. These birds are pretty hardy with females living five to six years and also the male typically up to ten years with smart care. It is essential to own a large cage that will permit your bird to exercise his wings by having the ability to fly within the cage-long being better than tall. Avoid inserting the cage in a drafty area as this will kill your bird while not warning.

Be sure to stay area temperature between sixty and seventy degrees Fahrenheit. These birds, as all birds, have terribly sensitive respiratory systems, and at just one occasion were taken into mines to detect poor air quality. When the Canary died it had been a sign that the air was not safe. Bear in mind to keep your bird faraway from the kitchen as several fumes made there are deadly to your bird (smoke from a burning Teflon pan for one).

Other potential problems and dangers your outdoor aviary birds may encounter and how to deal with them

The most obvious dangers would appear to be extremes in the weather conditions, but most pet aviary birds are more hardy than you would expect from a ‘tropical’ bird. For example – as mentioned in one of my earlier articles – sub-zero temperatures are not a great threat as long as your birds are well fed, away from draughts, and dry; although your birds will be quite fond of a rain shower occasionally. Hot sticky weather again is not too much of a threat as long as your birds can get out of the sun into some shade and have a plentiful supply of fresh clean water. You will find that many birds do actually like to have a snooze in the day, especially if it’s hot; a kind of bird ‘siesta’.

Quite a large threat for your birds is their own expert flair for escapology. ‘Houdini’ would be a fitting name for almost any small pet bird as they are most efficient at getting free from only the slightest weakness to the aviary construction or through your own ignorance. Don’t allow this to happen; check your aviary every day for signs of weakness and repair it accordingly, plus be sure to have some type of double-door security entrance to save them from busting out as you are trying to enter.

As your birds are in an unprotected and often mixed species environment the risk of them picking up any illnesses is much increased, as is the risk from ill health from any contagious diseases your other birds may have or be carrying. Keep a close eye on them, get to know all your birds and you will soon notice if there’s anything wrong. If you find an ill bird you must remove it from the others and quarantine it whilst you deal with the issue and keep a close look out for any of your other birds showing similar symptoms.

A large and possibly fatal risk to the birds in the outdoor aviary comes in the form of predators.

Cats, birds of prey, and other predators such as foxes, snakes, stoats, weasels or any predatory animal pose the greatest risk to your outdoor aviary birds, but having said that I once had two cats who were always around the outdoor aviary and were actually a massive help; once they realised that they could not get to my birds they unwittingly became the birds’ ever present protectors. They would climb onto the top of the aviary (cats like their wild cousins like to get high up) and would dare any other animal, birds of prey for example, to come anywhere near, of course nothing ever got close enough.

For your birds in the aviary predators can at the very least frighten them as they stalk and pounce, and a frightened bird can easily injure itself, and if a predator can actually get at your birds the results of course could be fatal. Also common sense should tell you not to take your pet snake in there for example.

Birds of prey also pose a massive risk, sparrow hawks are probably the most notorious here in the UK as they hunt birds by nature (but sparrows are not the only birds on the menu). Other birds of prey such as owls, kestrels etc. also pose a risk, if they think your birds are easy prey they will keep trying to get them.

One of the most effective ways to protect your birds from these predators is to adopt an aviary construction method known as ‘double-mesh’, this means that aviary mesh is attached to both sides of any framework; yes you will use twice as much mesh when you build or protect your aviary but it will certainly prove to be worthwhile; this will help prevent any predators from coming into contact with your birds and causing damage with claws etc. I once had a beautiful pair of yellow turquoisine grass parakeets, but a visit to my aviary (which co-incidentally was only single-meshed at the time) one day from a sparrow hawk left my turquoisine hen with a large gash to the chest from the talon of the sparrow hawk, sadly her injury was too substantial and resulted in her untimely death. Hasten to add I learnt my lesson and promptly went out and double-meshed my aviary.

Another potential but often less fatal hazard is brought about by the presence of rodents.

Squirrels, mice, rats etc. will most certainly attempt to get into your aviary to get at the bountiful food contained within. With their large incisors most rodents will think nothing of gnawing through wooden framework to gain access, and if the wood gets damp or wet regularly its strength is weakened, making it all the more easier for rodents to get through.

With this in mind any wood that is in constant contact with the ground will rot more quickly, and rats especially will happily chew away at ground level as it’s much easier for them than chewing at height. They are also rather efficient at digging through soil to gain entry from below.

To help prevent this it is best to have a solid concrete or slab (flagstone) base, concrete foundations (to stop them digging) and a brick, stone or concrete block wall at least 12 inch (30 cm) high at ground level with the remainder of the aviary attached to the top.

Also mice can get through a smaller hole than even your smallest birds, so don’t give them the chance.

Rodents are unlikely to cause any physical damage to your birds but they will steal food and leave behind unhygienic droppings. Rats especially will also take eggs and young chicks as a high protein meal.

The above is by no means conclusive and there are many more potential hazards to be aware of so you will need to be very diligent.

Please email me for more information or to reserve your copy of my new bird keeping ebook coming soon.

 

Booda Comfy Perch for Birds, Small 32-Inch, Colors Vary

Booda Comfy Perch for Birds, Small 32-Inch, Colors Vary

• Bird Breeder recommended to privde different perching surfaces and levels
• Helps relieve cage stress, boredom, and related feather picking
• Allows you to create different types of perches
• Depending on length you can create loops, curves, and other interesting shapes
• Hand washable

Your bird will love the shapes, bright colors and feel of the Booda Comfy Perch. it is bird breeder recommended to provide the different perching surfaces and levels birds need in their environment along with color enrichment. It helps relieve cage stress, boredom and related feather picking. Comfy Perch allows you to have fun creating different types of perches for your birds. Depending on the length of the cable, you can create loops, curves and other interesting shapes.

List Price: $ 6.99

Price:

Choosing your new small pet bird or birds, a few things to consider

During my 10 years experience I have only dealt with small pet birds so unfortunately for some my knowledge is restricted to these only.

Firstly you must decide what type of bird you would like and if it would be suitable to your circumstances, then you need to be sure you have a home set up for your new feathered friend before you bring it home.

?

Below is a brief but hopefully informative list of the most popular small pet birds and the ups and downs of their upkeep:

Budgie

From the parrot family and originally from Australia the budgie is often called ‘parakeet’ or ‘long-tailed parakeet’, the budgerigar is without a doubt the most popular pet bird in the Western world and with good reason; small enough to handle, easy to tame, inexpensive, a startling array of different colours, can be kept on its own, very friendly (if tame), a chatterer, minimum requirement to keep in good health, easy to breed (if you want to), usually mixes well with other small birds (budgies and other species). Ideal in a cage or aviary.

However budgies can inflict a nasty wound if they bite you whilst handling (rarely a problem if they’re tame, but they can draw blood if they sink their beak in), they can also be rather destructive (they love to chew), and budgerigars can be very territorial during breeding (especially if kept with other birds).

In the wild budgies live in large flocks and so need plenty of interaction to save them from becoming bored. They therefore need to be kept busy with lots of toys and your attention, or alternatively kept with another of their kind, so as they can interact with each other.

Cockatiel

Another Australian bird often called ‘tiel’ for short, these small parrots are also very popular as pets, due to their calm nature and unique character. A little bigger than the budgie so more space is required (a bigger cage for example), the cockatiel also lives in large flocks in the wild so again interaction and toys are a must.

They can be kept an their own or in pairs or small groups, and easy to keep. Ideal as a cage or aviary bird, and because of their calm nature the cockatiel will normally mix well with other small birds of a different species (cockatiels are often kept in the same aviary as budgerigars and finches with rarely any problems). They can learn to mimic other sounds with patience and determination, and are easy to tame.

However they can also inflict a rather nasty wound if they choose to bite (probably a worse injury than the budgie due to their larger beaks, but again not usually a problem when tame). Ideally if you want to breed your cockatiels they need to be on their own as a breeding pair with no other birds. These birds can also be very destructive due to their desire to have a chew at almost anything, but they are easily startled (so no sudden loud noises or sudden bright lights please!).

Finches

Somewhat smaller than budgerigars and cockatiels, and not part of the parrot family, the most popular types of finch are again very popular for good reason: very easy to keep, good natured, small and compact, extremely active, cute, prolific breeders, usually low priced, little space required for good upkeep (the perfect pet bird for apartments, flats and small living areas).

There are many types of finch available on the pet bird market but the most popular are: zebra finch, society finch (Bengalese finch), gouldian finch, java finch (java sparrow), the java being the largest of the four just mentioned (slightly smaller than the budgie).

All of these can be accommodated in a cage of aviary and also usually mix well with other species (I keep budgerigars, cockatiels, zebra finches, Bengalese finches, and javas together in a large outdoor aviary and very rarely have any problems).

As for the initial cost of these little characters the zebra finches usually come out the least expensive (from £3 to £8 each, often with a good deal for a pair), next would be the society finches (from £5 to £10 each, again with a better deal for a pair), then the javas (£8 to £15 each, buy two for a better price), and the gouldian finches coming out on top (the cheapest I’ve seen these is about £20 each right up to £60 – sometimes more – but a deal on more than one can usually be arranged). The reason for the bigger price for the gouldians is because of their great colouring and rarity, a desirable bird that people will often pay handsomely for.

However finches do not always take readily to handling and must be kept in groups of 2 or more.

At least due to their small size a bite is not likely to bother you a great deal.

Others

There are many other types of birds available but the price is usually higher as they are not as common.

Many other types of parakeets however are still rather popular – ring neck parakeet, grass parakeet (bourke, turquoisine, elegant, alexandrine), kakariki (New-Zealand parakeet), rosella to name but a few.

The upkeep however for all small pet birds is basically the same.

Always remember to shop around for the best deal and if possible buy your new bird or birds from a breeder, or hobbyist rather than a pet shop.

A note on accommodation for your new pet bird.

Most small pet birds will live happily in an aviary, and this is the nearest they are likely to get to their natural environment, but in an aviary your birds will become semi-wild and may not take very well to handling or one on one interaction.

Caged birds however are a different matter, and can often be tame and friendly towards us humans. Make sure that if you plan to keep your bird or birds in a cage then go for the biggest you can afford (within reason of course, no good putting zebra finches in a large wide barred parrot cage); your bird needs to be able to stretch its wings to their fullest extent and still have some room left.

Most pet birds – especially parrot type species – will spend more time climbing than flying, even in an aviary.

Look out for my new bird keeping ebook coming soon, email me to reserve your copy.

 

What you need to know about health and hygiene with regard to your pet and aviary birds

Decent hygiene is the biggest contributor to ensuring a fit and healthy bird or flock, whereas poor hygiene is the most common cause of poor health within your avian community. Of course you may unknowingly acquire a bird that is not in peak form and whose health still deteriorates regardless of what you do; I’m sorry! But in this situation there’s nothing you can do, best to accept your loss and try again, but hopefully and with a little luck you will never encounter this type of situation in your bird keeping pursuits.

The first thing to do if you have a number of birds and want to introduce more to your menagerie is to keep your new bird in quarantine for a few weeks, that is to keep it separated from your other birds so as you can monitor it and deal with any health or other issues before introducing your new cage or aviary mate to the rest of the group. This will prevent any infectious illnesses being passed on to your other birds. This is very important and should never be overlooked even if your new feathered friend appears fine when first acquired!

Get to know your pet bird or birds, keep a close eye on them, interact with them and watch them regularly. This way if any of your birds have a change of character or appear down then you will instinctively know that you may have a problem.

I am not a vet, just an enthusiastic bird keeper and as such I am unable to give you detailed lists of avian illnesses or how to deal with them, always best to consult an avian vet if you are worried. OK, I know that vet bills are often quite extortionate so I would advise to take out some type of pet insurance to help cover the costs, there are plenty of good pet bird insurance deals available, try the local pet shop, the vet, or do an online search for a good deal.

If you are observant enough you will soon spot any bad signs but to help the signs of ill health in most pet birds are the same:

your bird plucks its feathers

it loses its appetite and eats less than normally

bare spots appear in the plumage

discharge flows from the nostrils

the plumage of your bird starts to look dull or ruffled

the eyes appear slit rather than round

changes in the birds’ droppings occurs

sneezing occurs more than just occasionally

the bird screeches more than normally or in a new way

your bird sleeps more than normally

If any of the above changes are noticed in your bird then a potential health problem is likely to occur, if not occurred already.

As mentioned earlier, a good hygiene routine will help enormously to prevent health problems. We’re not talking ‘clinically clean’ here, just basic hygiene:

Daily

check food and if required replace with fresh

change water and replace with fresh, thoroughly clean water dish at every change

remove any uneaten fresh food and dispose of in the correct manner

Weekly

clean out the cage or aviary fully

scrub all perches and furniture in cage or aviary

thoroughly clean all food and water dishes and fill with fresh

wipe clean bars of cages, inner sides and inner top of aviary

thoroughly clean cage base, sweep debris off aviary floor and mop with weak disinfectant solution, rinse and allow to dry before permitting your birds in

Always

make sure all foods given are clean and safe, use same regime as if preparing food for yourself

wash your hands before handling bird food and before handling your bird

again wash hands thoroughly after handling your bird

Try not to use any detergents or disinfectants when cleaning your birds things unless they are safe for animal use, check the packaging or buy specialist animal safe products from the pet shop (but these can prove to be rather expensive). You can alternatively use a very weak solution of disinfectant or detergent when cleaning your bird things but you must then rinse them with fresh clean water and allow them to dry completely before returning them to your bird accommodation.

If it looks dirty then clean it; if it looks clean then clean it anyway just to be sure!

 

« Previous Page — Next Page »