Pet Insurance: The Most Expensive and Inexpensive Pets To Insure

Often, when people think about getting a pet, they only think about how fun it will be. A cute, cuddly little critter of their very own — what could be more fun?

The problems start when they realize that, just like humans, pets should be insured as well. Often, this realization occurs when they’re buying the pet and talking with the pet shop employee, but sometimes, it’s not until after they’ve already gotten the pet that they even think about pet insurance; they have to take him or her to the vet and then are hit with a huge bill.

Before you make any big decisions at the pet store, consider what kind of pet you want — and more importantly, if you can care for it properly. Hopefully you’re realistic about whether or not you’re responsible enough to regularly feed and pay attention to a pet, but in case you’re still uncertain about the long term responsibilities, listed below are different kinds of animals, broken down by how costly their pet insurance is.

Least expensive:

-Housecats

Housecats that tend to stay inside are less likely to sustain injury, and other than optional surgeries like spaying/neutering and declawing, there won’t be a lot of high-cost things to take care of.

-Non-exotic birds

Birds like parakeets are very inexpensive. The most costly thing you’ll have to worry about is an egg-binding surgery, in the event that a female is unable to pass a formed egg. Other problems such as feather picking or self-mutilation will be covered by insurance.

-Rodents

Hamsters, guinea pigs, mice, rats — all these small mammals are pretty much fuss-free in terms of insurance. They rarely need medications or surgeries, so the total cost of their pet insurance likely won’t exceed a couple hundred dollars over their lifespan.

Most expensive:

-Outdoor cats

Cats that spend a lot of time outside are very susceptible to injury (like car accidents or bad falls) and illness. They’re also in danger of exposure to violent or sick animals.

-Large animals

Animals like horses and cattle are some of the most expensive to insure, because they usually have to see a specialist. (When was the last time you sat next to a horse in the waiting room of your vet?) In the long run, the cost of how much money you’d have paid without insurance would greatly outweigh how much you pay for insurance.

-Exotic pets

Exotic pets like hedgehogs, potbellied pigs and alligators require specific care, and probably by a specialist. Because they’re rare (as pets) most practicing veterinarians don’t have experience with them.

All of this, of course, depends on the pet insurance carrier. Don’t let price cloud your judgment too much — be wary of carriers that are almost suspiciously inexpensive. Make sure you read the fine print when researching companies, and try to have an idea of what kind of pet you plan on getting to see what kind of coverage you’ll be able to get for him or her under certain plans.

The absolute basics to successfully breed four different types of the most popular pet birds. Part 1

Sexing your birds can sometimes be a bit hit and miss as not all have obvious differences between the two sexes. Adult male (cock) budgies will have a blue cere (the small flesh-like part above their beak (looks like nostrils) whereas the adult female (hen) budgie has a brown or tan-like cere, all juvenile budgies will have a pale blue cere until fully fledged. Bengalese (society) finches are very difficult to sex and best left to an avian professional (or you could just take your chances with a few and hope some pair up); the only really obvious trait is that a male will sing whereas a female will not (again not strictly true as hen birds can sometimes turn out a few pleasant notes, but the cock bird is much more efficient with his vocal chords). Normal zebra finches are generally easier to sex as the cock bird will have red or orange cheeks whereas the hen bird will not. As for cockatiels; well to be honest with you, I haven’t got a clue and just have to take my chances, an avian professional will be more able to help. With many other breeds, especially the many types of parakeets (small parrots) the male is often more brightly coloured than the female, but not in every case.

Firstly any birds you wish to breed should be in good health as raising chicks can be an exhaustive task and unfit birds would be unable to achieve it successfully.

Secondly your birds are going to require some sort of nest box, loads are available at very reasonable prices (or you could make your own), more info below.

Also you will have to ensure that there will be sufficient heat for your birds to breed and raise chicks, not excessive heat but enough for them to be comfortable.

Plus your birds will need a good regular supply of various foods to help them keep up their strength and feed their offspring.

Finally, certain nesting materials will be required for your birds to use.

So lets start at the beginning shall we; keep an eye on your birds to make sure that they display no signs of ill health or weakness. Of course the birds you hope to breed will have to be fully fledged and adult, this should go without saying. If you only have an opposite sex pair in a cage or small aviary don’t assume that they will want to breed, some just don’t fancy each other or are not ready. If however you have a large communal (or mixed) aviary your chances of breeding success will be much improved. Unless you plan to breed for the show bench (this requires much more attention) then you should allow your birds to choose their own mates. Most of the commonest birds kept as pets are monogamous by nature, that means they will pair for life and the same pair will mate year after year, there are exceptions of course but as a general rule monogamy is in where your pet birds are concerned. You will notice a paired couple in your mixed aviary as they will follow each other around and stick together, and an act known as ‘billing’ will occur often between the pair. Billing can be described as kissing, your birds will effectively ‘kiss’ each other with their bills (beaks), imitating the act of feeding each other (which of course they will actually do once nesting takes place).

This subject and others are covered more extensively in my new ebook coming soon. So for more information or to reserve your copy please email me.

Video Rating: 4 / 5

New Zealand 1962 Birds/Health/Parakeet 2v set (n20703)

US $2.76 End Date: Monday Feb-13-2012 3:19:48 PST Buy It Now for only: US $2.76 Buy it now | Add to watch list

Sick Parakeet….don’t know what to do. A response within 12 hours would be most helpful?

Hey there, I’ve been a parakeet owner for 8 years now, and I’ve never really had any sick parakeets, at least parakeets that are seriously sick. I have 8 parakeets and I have had breeding experience as well, so I am usually good with this stuff. My neighbor has recently asked me to watch their little parakeet for a couple days while they were out, and the bird was perfectly fine and healthy. A day after I returned the birdie, my neighbor called me telling me that the bird’s feathers were all plastered to his body, and he was shivering and had his wings looked like they were “airing” his armpits out. I usually see this when my birds have been stressed. I go over with some multivitamins and a treat and i see the bird is acting very strange. Usually when a bird is sick, he’s all puffed up. But this bird’s feathers did the opposite of puffing up, and he looked like he was stressed out. Looking at him, I knew this wasn’t the case. He hasn’t been eating or drinking much at all either. The owner said that she noticed his beak was a little wet last night. I know that the owner takes very good care of her bird, and the bird is very healthy, as I have seen. While I had the bird, I did everything that I’ve always done with my parakeets, but I used all that my neighbor gave me instead of my stuff. I’ve taken care of this bird several times before with no problems like this. They purchased a heat lamp for the birdie even. They talked about a vet, but we all decided to not do that, because they’re expensive and there aren’t any avian vets around where we live. I have let my birds heal by themselves and none of them have died or anything. I am unsure of what to do, and it would be awesome if i can get an answer within 12 hours, because that’s when I plan to walk to my neighbor’s and check on the birdie again. The owner had gone to a bird store and they gave her a couple packets of granulated medicine that you put in water. I have never used this and it turns the water yellow, and I am assuming it’s some sort of antibiotic. Please respond. I am worried that I don’t have much time for a delay. Thank you!

The parakeet owner’s handbook;: An easily followed guide to long life for your parakeet; showing how to most quickly train yours to talk; how to breed … diseases promptly; a human interest handbook

Due to stress my parakeet pulled most of its feathers. How long does it take for them to grow back?

I just got a new parakeet and it pulled its tail, chest, and back feathers out. He still has feather on his head and wings. He is still very healthy and playful. He stopped pulling once I bought him some parakeets to share the cage with. How long will Kojack (that what I named him because he is now bald) to grow his feathers back?
Thanks for the replies. I am sorry to say, but the bird broke its leg in the cage and later died.