What do I need to keep my budgies (parakeets) as healthy as possible for breeding?

2 Responses to “What do I need to keep my budgies (parakeets) as healthy as possible for breeding?”

1. KaybeeDoll on October 12th, 2008 5:25 pm
   Haven’t had a parakeet or breeded, but know some basic things about it… Make sure the cage is big enough for them, obviously. You should try to get them on some good vitamins and calcium, especially the female, before they are even ready to breed. I would recommend putting them on vits and calc at least one month prior to breeding, if not more to condition them. Eggs and protien are good, too. I would recommend taking them to an avian vet if you’re so worried about them being okay to breed in the first place. Birds conceal their sickness well. But you should probably feed them a parakeet mix, too. You do not need to cut their wings or nails, it is optional. People debate over the wing clipping, but whatever is best for you and your birds. It depends on the situation. But if they are not very tame, I would recommend wing clipping. Nails are used for grip, so you can decide on that one. If you are going to clip either, I would recommend having a professional do it, at least the first time, and you can watch and learn the techniques. When you and they are finally ready to breed, I would recommend a breeding box, not too big, but big enough. Put some tissue and maybe a few un-treated twigs or branches in their cage so they can make the nest. I think that was all of your questions, sorry so long!
2. pookie52504 on October 13th, 2008 1:23 pm
   Definately start them on a good diet beforehand. Lafeber’s had a good liquid vitamin. It colored the water yellow and some didn’t really like that, so I gave them a yellow colored watering tube and they didn’t know the difference.

   I fed my a lot of different things. They always had a good seed mix available to them. (I froze it for about 24 hours first, just to make sure there weren’t any little bugs in it, although good seed shouldn’t have much problem that way) I also fed a fresh mix twice daily. It had different things in it every time, but a basic mix had: cooked rice, shredded yams or sweet potatoes, shredded carrots, broccoli, cauliflower. I also used to take baby bok choy, wash the leaves, and roll it while wet in millet. Hang that in there and let them go to town. They all loved it. I also gave them hard boiled eggs, shell and all, ground in a food processor.

   You need to have good breeder boxes. Mine were about 9 inches square or so, with one little hole in the front, about 1 1/2 inches in diameter or so. I would put some clean wood shavings in the bottom for nest lining – some hens liked it, some didn’t. (No cedar, please! White pine is fine) I also had a small indentation in the bottom of the box to help avoid “lost” eggs. I never had a problem there – if the hens rejected an egg, it was definately on purpose so I don’t know if it was truly needed. I also had a flip top on the box for cleaning after brooding was done. You need to make sure you have more boxes than pairs, though, because the prime boxes will be contested for.

   Placement of the boxes also seemed to play a factor in preference. They liked the boxes that were higher in the flight cage and closest to the corners. It didn’t seem to matter if it was front of the flight or back, but they liked it high. My flight cage was 4 feet long, 3 feet high, and 2 feet deep.

   I would not recommend clipping wings right now, though. The males seemed to have better um, success, if they retained their flight capability. I think it had to do with balance while in the actual act of breeding the hen.

   Do NOT allow your birds to eat chocolate, alcohol, avacado, caffeine or cheese. I know that birds like to sneak some of this stuff, especially if they are allowed out – they like to sample whatever their people have – but they are toxic.

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